|Inside the car there
are 4 more 13mm bolts under the backseat and sometime 2 more 17mm
just behind these in the corners. I always remove all the seats
|Under each rear fender
near the top shock bolt is another 17mm bolt in a bracket.
|All this is the same
on a super beetle since they are identical from the windshield
back. On the standard beetle (we will come back to the super later)
there are 2 more 17mm bolts under the gas tank, which is easily
|Now unfasten the steering
column either at the coupler or at the box.
|Unplug the stop light
switch and remove the line from the brake fluid reservoir. Now
remove the left front hubcap and remove the clip from the end
of the speedo cable and pull it out the rear of the spindle. Let
|I always pull the
motor but if you want to leave it with the chassis you can disconnect
the wiring. The cables are OK. You will have to remove the wires
from the starter. You can leave the battery cable. There may be
a couple of easily disconnected heater vent cables at the rear
of the tunnel on the later bugs but that is about it on the standard.
Four guys in pretty good shape can lift the body off. Here is
a way one guy can do it alone. We have a couple of 8' wide saw
horses we set the body on.
|With the body lose
you can jack up the front of the car from under the chassis and
then set the saw horse under the bumper and bolt it with a safety
chain. (We wiggled one off once so we always use them) Now let
the chassis down and do the same in the rear. Now you can roll
the chassis out from under if you like. (You may need to remove
the gear shifter to clear the sawhorse.) On the super beetle there
are 2 13mm bolts under some plugs in the bottom of the spare tire
well. There is also a plug there covering a 15mm bolt in the steering
damper that needs to be removed.
|Now look under the
front of the car and you will see a 17mm bolt on each side just
behind the anti sway bar. Just loosen these a little for now.
|We will let the body
pivot on these as we lift the rear up first. Now unbolt the tie
rod ends on both side and separate them either with a tool for
this or a pickle fork if you are not worried about ruining the
|Remove the clip that
holds the brake line to the body (you can leave the line connected).
Disconnect the speedo cable. Now jack up the rear of the car and
set it on the horses. Set the rear of the chassis back and move
the jack to the front. Disconnect the fuel line and stop it up.
Unplug the stop light switches and unplug the brake reservoir
lines from the master cylinder. Now jack up the front of the car
and set the body on the sawhorse and secure the safety chains.
|Now remove the 3 14mm
nuts on each side that hold the strut assembly to the body. Don't
remove the nut from the middle of the strut.
|With the jack still
under the chassis remove the two 17mm bolts we loosened earlier
at the front of the chassis. Lower the chassis. You will notice
that the front wheels have folded under and are now very wobbly.
You will have to pull the chassis out from under the body with
it on the jack. Note* I'd suggest that anyone with a louvered
front skirt check for a/c connections before lifting the body,
they're pretty well hidden.
|Once out you can fabricate
3 pieces of angle iron to support the struts. Run two back to
the front bolt of the shifter and one between the struts. Another
piece bolted to the spindles will keep the wheels going the same
direction so you can easily push the chassis where you want it.
|That's all there is
to it so don't let the sound of "body off" intimidate
you. Of course watching the video (Vol.6) will make even clearer.
To let you know how easy this gets after you have done it a few
times. As a demonstration at The Real Source 2001 Funfeast my
two sons Chad and Wade pulled the motor and the body from a 62
bug in less than 30 minutes. You can do it! You can see this done
in detail in our Vol.6 Floorpan repair video available from Bug